Resurecting AGAIN

[tiny]

So I got my Blazer finally working good but now when I go wheelin I kinda have to baby it if thats possible. So I am putting a different motor and front axle in one of my old mud trucks to get it going again. This is what it was when I bought it
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/3184000-3184999/3184898_4_full.jpg?061821-309
Then I put a different body on it and yes the doors did match once upon a time. Now I need to convert the original power doors to manual so it matches again and of course loose the topper. I am hoping to put a 14 bolt in the rear with a 4.10 ratio cause now the axles are 10 bolts with 2.73 gears(its a 4spd) then find some different tires but for now fix the front axle I blew both u-joints on the axle shaft last time I was out along with tankin the motor
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/3184000-3184999/3184898_5_full.jpg?082421-309
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/3184000-3184999/3184898_3_full.jpg?082421-309

[hell on wheels]

sweet base to an awsome mudder. Chevys are the best place to start

[hell on wheels]

Sweet base to an awesome mudder. Chevys are the best place to start!

[tiny]

now I just have to find a cheap and safe way to lift it

[hell on wheels]

shackle flip the rear and stack rear leafs below the main front leaf and buy a boomerang arm and then ya got a 4 inch lift. prolly the cheapest ya can get, ya dont even gotta take the u-bolts off the rear axle. total cost is the steering arm and the extended shocks.

[Fluffy Bully]

nice ride looks like fun and you got some work ahead of you good luck

[Army boy]

go offroad design they got a shackle flip kit that get you four inches

[hell on wheels]

or you can just make your own all ya have to do is torch a hole in the bottom of the back shackle and stick the shackle through the hole the opposite way it was before and ya get instant 4 in lift, no blocks, no money, and it gives you a great pinion angle

[MrClemons]

shackle flip the rear and stack rear leafs below the main front leaf and buy a boomerang arm and then ya got a 4 inch lift. prolly the cheapest ya can get, ya dont even gotta take the u-bolts off the rear axle. total cost is the steering arm and the extended shocks.

rather then doing all that with the stock from springs, do a 52inch spring swap in the front and a shackel flip in the rear, you will get a good ride, little more wheelbase(moves the the front axle a couple inches forwads AWAY from the cab so its easier to cut and fit big tires in!)

[mudtrux]

rather then doing all that with the stock from springs, do a 52inch spring swap in the front

What do you order springs for to get the 52's


a shackel flip in the rear,

I've wanted to try this but was worried about getting the rear shackle bolts out without destroying the mounting holes. Any tips besides the gas wrench?

[compoundfractureracing]

good choice but i built my own lift using springs from a jeep and the main leaf of my chevy truck worked great and it was cheep

[tiny]

you got a pic of that having a hard time figuring it out just by the way the mount is on the rear definatley something I want to try
or you can just make your own all ya have to do is torch a hole in the bottom of the back shackle and stick the shackle through the hole the opposite way it was before and ya get instant 4 in lift, no blocks, no money, and it gives you a great pinion angle

[hell on wheels]

srry no pics my truck is 50 miles away at the moment

[tiny]

hell on wheels what are you running for lift and axles

[hell on wheels]

hell on wheels what are you running for lift and axles

i run a 4 in body lift,

front has 4 in dropped shackles and perches and stacked leafs which prolly gives me a total of 10 in of susp lift

back has shackle flip, stacked leafs, and 4 in blocks which gives me bout 10 inches back there too.

so overall about 14 in of lift, oh and i run rockwell 2.5 ton toploaders

[tiny]

stock chevy springs just stacked or did you swap springs from something else if so I think I may have to play the copy cat game that is if I can figure out the flip in rear do you take the mount off flip it if so grade 8 bolts strong enough or did you weld it dont mean to bug or sound ignorant but somdays we all have issues

[hell on wheels]

lol yea ill try to answer the best i can. i just used rear leaf springs ouf half ton pickups mainly because they had more arch than 3/4 tons and i used them type of springs on all 4 corners too. as for the rear shackle all i did was remove the lower shackle bolt (the one that attatches the swinging part of the shackle to the bracket on the frame) then i pulled the leaf springs under the shackle bracket and then torched a hole in that bracket and bolted it back into the same hole. so basically i just made the rear shackle for the rear axle point downward instead of point upward and all i did cut one hole and take out one bolt move the springs below instead of above and put the bolt back in.

hope that helps

[hell on wheels]

ha ha! i have found one pic that you can kinda just barely see it but i think youll get the idea.

[tiny]

you put a longer shackle in the front then did you have to shim for your pinion angle nevermind lets try this again would I have to shim for correct pinion angle and did you buy or make your own for front thanks for the pic I will go outside later andf take a look I am sure it will click in my head maybe

[hell on wheels]

you put a longer shackle in the front then did you have to shim for your pinion angle nevermind lets try this again would I have to shim for correct pinion angle and did you buy or make your own for front thanks for the pic I will go outside later andf take a look I am sure it will click in my head maybe


so i guess you understand the back and now you wanna understand the front? well heres some old pics i got of the front spring hangers i moved down 4 inches. and then where the leafs are attatched on the other end there is shackles so i just made a set of them that were 4 inches longer also. got it?

[hell on wheels]

and yea i made EVERYTHING myself

[tiny]

thanks I appreciate you taking the time to explain all of that to me thats going to save me some cash and a heck of alot of time trying to figure it out myself
thats why I love this website there has been many people here that have been very helpful

[ox_man]

just remember if you make your own shackles that you only get half the length in height example a shackle that 6" longer only adds 3" of lift. but if you follow what hell on wheels does drop both ends of the springs then you will get the full amount

[tiny]

how many ofyou guys have made your own drive shafts and tips or tricks to this it will only be off road use

[zodiac]

i could make any shaft u would like pm me

[tiny]

Got the front clip off and the motor out last night got done about 3 am. How many of you guys are running a manual tranny? What do you run for pipe when you relocate your radiator to the bed any tips on how to do that?

[hell on wheels]

for making your own driveshaft its perty simple you cut the yolk off a driveshaft leaving only about a 1 inch stub of the driveshaft tube left. then you grind off the weld that runs all the way around joining the tube to the yolk. then you cut a notch all the way through the little piece of the drive shaft tube thats left so you can get a air chisel between the remaining tube and yolk and chisel off the the remaining tube. what your left with is a perfect yolk you can press/hammer into the end of a new tube or if your shortening the shaft you can put it back into the same one. sorry i have no pics and im not very good at explaining but im tryin here. hope that helps

[tiny]

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/3184000-3184999/3184898_6.jpg?582200-325 front clip off
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/3184000-3184999/3184898_7.jpg?582200-325 old motor out
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/3184000-3184999/3184898_8.jpg?582200-325 how it sits now
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/3184000-3184999/3184898_9.jpg?582200-325 my POS replacement 350 that came out of my Blazer it has ALOT of blowby and it smokes but wth blow'er up and put in a different one at least it will keep the skeeters away
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/3184000-3184999/3184898_10.jpg?582200-325 A stupid idea that I kicking around dont think I will work but I dont know what do you think I am not sure if this will be to close to the master cylinder or not just trying to think of a way to get a different exhaust on it would love to run stacks but not finding to many
anyone have any info on relocating radiators to the bed like what you used for tubing or what not to do etc

[tiny]

So 2 months after bringing it into the shop and pushing it aside to work on other things that couldn't wait I have a motor in it. Now I need to hunt down a distributor cap and figure out the wiring that I had cut up and wire it up. Then put the front clip back on and start on swapping axles or just fixing the front not sure what to do yet getting anxious to take out for a beat. maybe I will just fix it till I can afford bigger. I want to do somthing different other than cutting out bigger and my front fenders are rusty as hell anyone have any ideas. Was thinking on narrowing like they do on the rock crawlers but I would imagine in the mud it would be a pain

[tiny]

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2740/2961/31848980011_medium.jpg?594108-008
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2740/2961/31848980012_medium.jpg?554308-008
my carnage from the other nite
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2740/2961/31848980013_medium.jpg?304608-008

[tiny]

OK I am about ready to scrap this thing or sell it I have a charging issue no biggie I can figure it out the thing runs good idles nice goes through the gears fine blah blah blah BUT when you rev it up I get an awful squeal from my clutch area and will not go away until shut off and restarted what in the he** did I possibly do wrong when installing my clutch in only goes together one d**m way anyone have any ideas for me
ps I adjusted my cluch because it was too tight and wasnt engaging fully and it didnt help
Thanks

[ox_man]

Not sure but could it be the starter hanging up a little? You could try shimming the starter

[tiny]

Dumb question if the starter had a short in it could it still work but drain the battery
and ox-man I will try the starter that kinda what it sounds like just wondering about the nasty drain in electric I have

[chevylover516]

ANY LUCK tiny

[ox_man]

yeah it could still work. could just be a solinod going bad. how do you have it set up for starting? Push button or stock ignition key? I had a push button go bad and actually smoke a starter cause it was stuck open slightly and caused a high amp draw on low volts.

[chevylover516]

i would check the wires/cables just to be sure if there is no damage or signs of short's in wires/cables
i don't know if this helpful or not

edit or if there bad wires

[tiny]

Allright so this is kinda embarassing but, I have never had a front axle apart how difficult is it? I was going to swap in different axles but times a wasting so for now I may replace my front axle shafts with some good old reliable used ones. Do I need any special tools or can I get away without them. How hard is the whole job start to finish? What should I watch for or not do to save me time?
Thanks

[ox_man]

for tools you will need a good snap ring pliers, 4X4 hub socket for that axle, and maybe a pick or small flat screw driver in place of the snap ring pliers. Also a good hex bit for the lock out.

its pretty straight forward to disassemble just be sure to lay it out in order for easier reassembly, and with more grease for the wheelbearings

[muddingrizz]

I'm not sure if this is it but are the small wires hooked to the solnoid right? One of the wires excites the alt and tells it to start charging. if its hooked wrong it could be drawing power even after the key is shut off. As for the clutch I have no idea.

[muddyscout]

could be the throw out bearing squealing

[ben roen]

Body lifts are cheap and easy

[tiny]

could be the throw out bearing squealing

By some act of god it stopped squealing so I dont know what the hell it was So I need to figure out wiring and front axles hoping to have it done by the 18th oh then i need a pull point welded in. Took it out yesterday and beat on it in the yard and now I am getting exited oh yea I need a carb badly too.

[tiny]

Body lifts are cheap and easy
I think I will just cut them out with a sawzall and fine tune them with a BFH
:)

[tiny]

anyway I can pull this apart without the special socket

[ox_man]

anyway I can pull this apart without the special socket

carefully use a punch or chisel in the dimples of the hub nut. the outer nut will be very tight while the inner nut should be hand tight or a hair tighter, be sure to pull the spacer ring out before trying to get to the 2nd nut. (I've tried to skip this step, it don't work, lol)

[tiny]

Switched altenators this morning same old problem unplugged it and no noise so its wiring. I switched the two positive wires and it doesnt make noise but now I dont know if I am charging Iwill figure it out later. Got both axles pulled this morning now I need to head over to my brothers to pick some up. Should be going by this weekend. Anyone want to weld up a pull point for me :) So ya think I fit 38's with no lift

[tiny]

can i run without a front bumper or do some places frown on that

[chevy_338]

i have never had a front bumper on any thing i have run

[tiny]

how long would a welded front 10 bolt last me are they super weak or will it hold up in the mud

[goin_awol_mn]

i am not to sure how long it will last but i think they are good axle for the money and ease of replacing stuff on them

[tiny]

Well with any luck I just may finish it by the weekend still have to get receiver welded on and cut the fenders a bit no rubbing on front but not far away from it buy me a strap and a fire extinguisher and I am all set

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2740/2961/31848980017_medium.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2740/2961/31848980018_medium.jpg

[tiny]

Is there a way to not run an altenator and not having anything run off the battery I took it out for a beat through the yard for about 20 min I went to start it and I wont turn over and it is a different starter than what was in the other truck any ideas on wtf is going on it would suck to die in the mud pit and not get it started i have played with the timing and it seems to not matter on how it starts when it is warm

[tiny]

I had a ground off the battery to the body maybe that will help put a different water pump in it hood on
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2740/2961/31848980022_large.jpg

[BeerCan]

You need some sort of electric in order for your coil to work

[tiny]

I got an uncut motor harness I am going to throw that on and start over one component at a time if that doesnt work there is always gas and a match

[muddyscout]

http://www.derbypro.com/goldmember/pics/alt.gif


The diagram shows how to wire a Delco (GM) alternator. Note that this applies to the older 3 wire Delco alternators, not the newer (~1985+) Delcotron electronic alternators.


1This is the main power wire that goes directly to the battery. Make sure it is a heavy gauge since it has to carry the full output of the alternator (up to 100 amps).

2This is the field wire that energizes the alternator. It must be switched, or else it will drain the battery overnight. Do not wire this into the coil power wire that you use to switch the engine on and off (a seemingly elegant solution), since once the engine is running, the alternator will power the coil, and your ignition switch will no longer kill the engine.

3This is the lead for the sensing wire that goes to the idiot light in your instrument panel. A neat tip: if you aren't using a voltmeter or oil pressure gauge, run this wire to a light mounted somewhere on your dash. Often you can't hear your own engine running in the derby, so when this light lights up you know that your engine has just quit (or the alternator has just stopped charging for some reason).

4This is the regulator bypass hole. Sticking a long thin metal object about 2 inches deep into this D-shaped hole causes the alternator to go to full charge. If you do this while it's dark out and the main power wire is disconnected, the whole alternator will emit a cool X-Files type glow. I don't recommend that you try this since you'll likely end up frying your alternator.

[muddyscout]

that will get rid of all the stock wiring for the alt and u can run all of your own

and for the starter and ignition

http://www.derbypro.com/goldmember/pics/chevywiring.jpg

Chevy Ignition Wiring You'll need one toggle and one pushbutton switch. Take a hot wire directly from your battery and connect that to one side of the toggle then jumper it to your pushbutton. From the switched side of the toggle run that wire to you distributor(back left post) and from the pushbutton run that to your starter("S" terminal). Run your ground cable from your battery straight to the back of the engine(clean the ground point first)and the positive cable to the starter. Run most of your wires through the hole from the heater core to keep them from being pinched or burned by the engine. You can line them with rubber hose or wrap them with duct tape to help protect them

i borrowed this from a derby site it should help u simplify your wiring

[chevy_338]

about the alt i know of a place that if you bring them your alt they will rebuild the alt for you and wire it for you so all you have to do is tap the gas and it will start to charge i just had mine done and it works nice

[muddyscout]

that is what the wiring i just put up does i have wired alts this way for derby cars before
and it is simple to do

[chevy_338]

i was just saying then you don't have to have all the wires abd its just the one that goes to the battery

[Diggerz]

can i run without a front bumper or do some places frown on that

you dont need a bumper but you need a pull point. most places dont allow hooks anymore.

and as far as a 10bolt goes...good luck! atleast step up to a D44

[muddyscout]

http://www.derbypro.com/goldmember/pics/alt.gif




2This is the field wire that energizes the alternator. It must be switched, or else it will drain the battery overnight. Do not wire this into the coil power wire that you use to switch the engine on and off (a seemingly elegant solution), since once the engine is running, the alternator will power the coil, and your ignition switch will no longer kill the engine.




if you hook pole 1 and 2 and hook them to the battery it will do that but you also need to unhook the battery when your done running it

[tiny]

and as far as a 10bolt goes...good luck! atleast step up to a D44

I have a few extra parts to burn up

[ox_man]

opps

[tiny]

Put the wiring harness in it today and so far it seems to be charging and it will start after it gets warm. I replaced the starter to so maybe that helped too bad my spare starter is starting to take a $hit on me already. Maybe I will be hitting some mud this weekend. Stiill have to cut out the fenders at least in front.

[compoundfractureracing]

you dont need a bumper but you need a pull point. most places dont allow hooks anymore.

and as far as a 10bolt goes...good luck! atleast step up to a D44


I'm tryin to figure out why all you guys are scared of a 10 bolt. When you think about it realistically a D44 is almost the same the outter shafts are the same just the inners are different spline count. We don't weld ours just leave it open. yeah you'll break sometimes but they are a dime a dozen to find shafts. Like my husband says "if you ain't breaking you ain't having fun" plus he's broken D60 shaft's and D44 shafts, but it's always by the joint. And for no bumper don't hit anything. We actually run over tree's all the time to get where we are going sometime! I'll have to get some video this weekend!

[twistedpleasure777]

10 bolt gm axles are not all that bad i have a set in my blazer rear welded front open and a stick with a healthy 355 and it took me 2 1/2 years to break a front shaft and im running 36/13.5/15 IROCKS they are good axles if you just play in the mud and keep the front open

10 bolts have better ground clearance and are alot lighter than most axles people upgrade to so they are still a good axle to run if you dont go bigger than a 35-36 inch tire and dont jump the truck

and 10 bolts are everywhere since most people are taking them out and giving em away since scrap is in the gutter you can find spare parts really cheap

[twistedpleasure777]

tiny take a look at my Blazer photos you can see what i did to clear 36s with only a 4 inch lift and i pulled the sway bar and i dont get any body rub with the trimming i have done

[compoundfractureracing]

10 bolt gm axles are not all that bad i have a set in my blazer rear welded front open and a stick with a healthy 355 and it took me 2 1/2 years to break a front shaft and im running 36/13.5/15 IROCKS they are good axles if you just play in the mud and keep the front open

10 bolts have better ground clearance and are alot lighter than most axles people upgrade to so they are still a good axle to run if you dont go bigger than a 35-36 inch tire and dont jump the truck

and 10 bolts are everywhere since most people are taking them out and giving em away since scrap is in the gutter you can find spare parts really cheap


We run 39.5x15x16 Iroks on the front...at least i think they are 15 wide could be wrong but are 39.5's. Only reason on my truck i break axles is becauses i don't have shocks and sometimes the front comes down hard with tons of wheel speed when climbs hills and stuff.

[tiny]

well took the old beater out today and didnt have any issues other than running out of gas that is. I brought the trusty sawzall with so I could do some trimming on the run if needed but by some act of god what I had done previously to get my old 35's on was enough I cant believe it no rubbing with 38's and no lift. As far as my mighty 10 bolt goes I have extras around here for parts. Its not I am running big ponys under the hood hell I am lucky if its firing on all 8. All in all my smokey motor with my stick has enough snort for now till it blows anyways Im not going to stick any cash into this thing I have another project that I will build a little stronger and leave this one up at my brothers. Either way it was a good day I was in the mud in a truck I havent had out in about 5 years I forgot how fun the truck was.