f800
05-31-2011, 03:10 PM
Besides bogging I build street & strip cars and play with boats. I had been researching the right build for my twin engine boat to upgrade to Vortec heads and stay carbureted. I learned a lot about this along the way including the right set up to produce around 440hp on pump gas for a street car. I then decided to tweak the build a little to produce more torque and put one together for my mud truck. Just tested the new engine at Indian Creek Mud Bog in Hertel WI and it rocked!!! I don't have $1,000 in this build and this is how I did it.
I started with a 1977 350. Stripped it down and off to be machined 30 over and had the deck resurfaced (VERY Important).
Took a set of 1996-1999 Vortec 906 heads, had them resurfaced and a valve job. Installed new valve springs (must must do). Vortec heads will not work with a performance cam unless you change springs. To do so you need to have the spring seats and guides machined down to handle larger springs and allow clearance for the valve seal at full lift. You can also get the Beehive springs from comp cam or do what I did and get on ebay and buy a set of springs designed for this application. I paid $89 from Alexsparts on ebay. Make sure you get the spring and retainer kit for flat tappet hydraulic lifters. This kit has shallower retainers to give more clearance between them and the valve seal. If you use Vortec heads with a cam with close to 550 lift or more then you will need to machine them and install rocker studs.
When running Vortec heads you will need a Felpro intake gasket part#1255 (ebay $20 or northern auto) to fit the intake you will need to find on ebay for around $120. Vortec heads take a special intake. I had some on hand so I was set but when you go looking make sure you get a dual plane intake for this application. You will also want to take your intake gasket and hold it up to the intake and trace out the gasket port shape on any port overlap on the intake. Then grind the intake port out to your traced line to match ports. Very important for good flow! The heads usually match the gasket well but check any way.
I went with 30 over flat top pistons. You can buy a complete engine reman kit with cam and pistons from Northern Auto (http://www.northernautoparts.com/ (http://www.northernautoparts.com/) 1-800-831-0884) for $189.99. You will have to modify the kit and they will let you do that. You don't want the stock cam. If you are using my build then you will want an Extreme Energy Comp Cam part# 12-243-3. I think they sell that cam for $111 and you will get credit for not using the stock cam. I got a new Scat crank from them but you can save money by having your crank resurfaced before calling in your order so you know what size bearings to get. Make sure you upgrade the bearings to Clevit!! Upgrade to a high volume oil pump and make sure they know you need 30 over flat top pistons and rings(or whatever over you are going). No charge for the piston and ring upgrade.
You will also want to order a different set of head gaskets. I use a 0.015 Felpro metal shim gasket part number# 1094. These head gaskets are sold individually so get two. These head gaskets are the reason it is so important to resurface you block deck and heads. If you do not take this step you will run the chance of head gasket coolant leaks. During assembly I also use the brush on Permatex on both the head and block surface for additional head gasket sealing.
You will need a set of stock or better self adjusting rocker arms from any 1987-1999 fuel injected SBC. They are all 1.5 ratio. What you are looking for in these rockers is a little lip on each side of where the rocker touches the valve stem. If you take a 1986 or older rocker arm and hold it upside down beside a fuel injection rocker you will see what I am talking about. As far as push rods, you will want 1995 or older. The Vortec push rods are not the right length.
So what it all amounts to is an old school bottom end with a newer style top end.
It is very important that you use a set of 906 or better Vortec heads, old camel backs, or a good set of aftermarket head with around 64cc or better chamber size. If you are going to use lower compression open chamber heads you will need a different cam.
The reason I use the 906 Vortecs is because I have a bunch of them lying around. There are better Vortec heads. The 906's flow GREAT and a have 64cc chamber. Some Vortec heads have better exhaust flow. This build will give you right around 10:1 compression. I have not dyno tested but should not be a far cry from 400hp with the right carb. Go no bigger than 750cfm.
It will also be very important to use a stall converter. I used a 2600 stall but will be pulling it back out to replace it with a 3000 stall. The cam I listed has a power range of 1800-6000rpm. A 2600 stall starts coming in at around 1800rpms. That is why I am going to try the 3000 stall that way I am fully in my power range when it starts coming in. I have not tried it yet so we will see if I like it better.
Headers are also a must for proper flow.
Everything else is basic assembly. If I think of something I left out I will come back and post it. There are more upgrades that can be done(like file fit rings) but this is a super cheap way of getting lots of ponies and a bad a$$ sounding engine.
Happy Building!!!
F800 a.k.a -The Welder-:drive:
I started with a 1977 350. Stripped it down and off to be machined 30 over and had the deck resurfaced (VERY Important).
Took a set of 1996-1999 Vortec 906 heads, had them resurfaced and a valve job. Installed new valve springs (must must do). Vortec heads will not work with a performance cam unless you change springs. To do so you need to have the spring seats and guides machined down to handle larger springs and allow clearance for the valve seal at full lift. You can also get the Beehive springs from comp cam or do what I did and get on ebay and buy a set of springs designed for this application. I paid $89 from Alexsparts on ebay. Make sure you get the spring and retainer kit for flat tappet hydraulic lifters. This kit has shallower retainers to give more clearance between them and the valve seal. If you use Vortec heads with a cam with close to 550 lift or more then you will need to machine them and install rocker studs.
When running Vortec heads you will need a Felpro intake gasket part#1255 (ebay $20 or northern auto) to fit the intake you will need to find on ebay for around $120. Vortec heads take a special intake. I had some on hand so I was set but when you go looking make sure you get a dual plane intake for this application. You will also want to take your intake gasket and hold it up to the intake and trace out the gasket port shape on any port overlap on the intake. Then grind the intake port out to your traced line to match ports. Very important for good flow! The heads usually match the gasket well but check any way.
I went with 30 over flat top pistons. You can buy a complete engine reman kit with cam and pistons from Northern Auto (http://www.northernautoparts.com/ (http://www.northernautoparts.com/) 1-800-831-0884) for $189.99. You will have to modify the kit and they will let you do that. You don't want the stock cam. If you are using my build then you will want an Extreme Energy Comp Cam part# 12-243-3. I think they sell that cam for $111 and you will get credit for not using the stock cam. I got a new Scat crank from them but you can save money by having your crank resurfaced before calling in your order so you know what size bearings to get. Make sure you upgrade the bearings to Clevit!! Upgrade to a high volume oil pump and make sure they know you need 30 over flat top pistons and rings(or whatever over you are going). No charge for the piston and ring upgrade.
You will also want to order a different set of head gaskets. I use a 0.015 Felpro metal shim gasket part number# 1094. These head gaskets are sold individually so get two. These head gaskets are the reason it is so important to resurface you block deck and heads. If you do not take this step you will run the chance of head gasket coolant leaks. During assembly I also use the brush on Permatex on both the head and block surface for additional head gasket sealing.
You will need a set of stock or better self adjusting rocker arms from any 1987-1999 fuel injected SBC. They are all 1.5 ratio. What you are looking for in these rockers is a little lip on each side of where the rocker touches the valve stem. If you take a 1986 or older rocker arm and hold it upside down beside a fuel injection rocker you will see what I am talking about. As far as push rods, you will want 1995 or older. The Vortec push rods are not the right length.
So what it all amounts to is an old school bottom end with a newer style top end.
It is very important that you use a set of 906 or better Vortec heads, old camel backs, or a good set of aftermarket head with around 64cc or better chamber size. If you are going to use lower compression open chamber heads you will need a different cam.
The reason I use the 906 Vortecs is because I have a bunch of them lying around. There are better Vortec heads. The 906's flow GREAT and a have 64cc chamber. Some Vortec heads have better exhaust flow. This build will give you right around 10:1 compression. I have not dyno tested but should not be a far cry from 400hp with the right carb. Go no bigger than 750cfm.
It will also be very important to use a stall converter. I used a 2600 stall but will be pulling it back out to replace it with a 3000 stall. The cam I listed has a power range of 1800-6000rpm. A 2600 stall starts coming in at around 1800rpms. That is why I am going to try the 3000 stall that way I am fully in my power range when it starts coming in. I have not tried it yet so we will see if I like it better.
Headers are also a must for proper flow.
Everything else is basic assembly. If I think of something I left out I will come back and post it. There are more upgrades that can be done(like file fit rings) but this is a super cheap way of getting lots of ponies and a bad a$$ sounding engine.
Happy Building!!!
F800 a.k.a -The Welder-:drive: