View Full Version : Bodywork thread?
mudtrux
02-19-2010, 02:29 AM
So here's a thread about the art of Bodywork. I'm ok to finish to flat black but would like others (Chad) to chime in about the trade/craft
mudtrux
02-19-2010, 02:38 AM
Clogged sand paper.
Sanding fresh or thick mud the paper gets dirty quick.
Answer: the pimp stick
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc27/mudtrux/101_2534.jpg
Stretch a hanger out as shown
and spank it on the sanding block.
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc27/mudtrux/101_2535.jpg
viola, crust is gone!
mudtrux
02-19-2010, 02:45 AM
A 1" strip to a golf ball lump of filler is all or what you need.
Make sure beforehand that the hardener is THICK and not runny (old crap (runny) separates and makes the mud pop)
Anyone else?
Thumper
02-19-2010, 08:23 AM
ummm... make shure you shake the can really well b4 you paint oh and wash the mud off first
PRINCETON_JAKE
02-19-2010, 08:31 AM
I just wing body works, no skills or tallent here.
Rumours
02-19-2010, 09:19 AM
I just wing body works, no skills or tallent here.
thats what most people do
Rumours
02-19-2010, 09:21 AM
if the paper gets cloged you can also take the blow gun to it also and dont put bondo over the paint nice clean metal works best
MrClemons
02-19-2010, 10:18 AM
Theres stuff made to shape bondo, its called a cheese file, it works so much better then trying to sand out bondo, once you get it close you can sand it the rest of the way.
Also, a paint job is in the prep work, The actual spraying should be less then 5% of the job.
Littledodge76
02-21-2010, 08:18 AM
My bodywork tools
http://www.istockphoto.com/file_thumbview_approve/1830717/2/istockphoto_1830717-sledge-hammer.jpg
http://www.herrochester.com/blogs/hartmann/uploaded_images/045242054169-797055.jpg
4x4x4x460
02-21-2010, 01:24 PM
High spot in the metal can not be sanded out so make sure to pound them down first then Only put bondo on metal or bondo because of the diffrent sanding rates of paint and body filler,It will be more easy to get flat that way then use a glazing puddy(only the kind that you mix)not the old school red ****) to get it perfect and all the air bubbles out. Spray it with a epoxy sealer or you will always see the repair and never put bondo on to thick because it will shrink and look like **** down the road. Use the right grit paper or you will be sanding forever once you have the bondo and sealer done use a high build primer then block sand till you see no more orange peel in the primer i like to use a very light coat of black primer over the light gray high build so i can see all the low spots when sanding. these are some of the things I know and was taught by a bodyman but every body does it a little diffrent.
Dirt Devil
02-21-2010, 10:59 PM
kind of a method i was taught when mixing your mud, to cut down on your amount of pin holes in your work, knead the hardener into your filler by repeatedly dragging your spreader across your mixing plate (cardboard) occasionally putting the mud back into a pile in 1 turning sweeping motion and start kneading it back out a again and again. this greatly reduces pin holes, compared to stirring your mud. and when applying filler in a large area, if you have to do 2 coats, be sure your first coat is low enough that you dont sand through your second to the first as the sanding rate will always be different cuz you can never add the same amount of hardner, same case with a finish coat, just some things i have learned.
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